Year round there are clouds on top of Kakavaberd Fortress…
Aksel Bakunts
Kakavaberd is one of the few Armenian fortresses that are relatively well-preserved. The fortress is a great travel destination because it is a historical site, it is an interesting architectural piece and it has a stunning view around it.
Kakavaberd Fortress is located in Ararat province, more precisely in Khosrov Forest State Reserve. The fortress can be found on a ridge that overlooks Azat River Gorge. Getting to the fortress promises to be fun and entertaining with lots of good humor.
The Fortress of Kakavaberd is also known as the fortress of Geghi. The fortress was built on top of a mountain, which is inaccessible from three sides because of steep terrain. The walls of the fortress stretch from the north to the east. They are 2-2.5 meters thick and 8-10 meters tall. Inside the fortress there are the church and ruins of several other structures.
The Fortress of Kakavaberd was first mentioned in the 9th-10th centuries. The first mentions were found in Armenian historian Hovhannes Draskhanakertsi’s work the “The History of Armenia.” According to them, back then the fortress was ruled by Bagratunis, a noble Armenian family. In 324 a battle took place at the island of Sevan. The battle ended with the victory of the Armenians. It caused the rage of Arab chief Beshir who couldn’t sit quiet after being defeated and therefore moved toward the fortress of Kakavaberd. Beshir was then defeated by Armenian prince Gevorg Marzpetuni.
In the 11th century the fortress was under the control of Pahlavuni family. Already in the 12th-13th centuries the fortress passed over to Proshyan family. Both Pahlavunis and Proshyans were noble Armenian families.
The year 1224 is when the fortress was last mentioned. It was the time when Ivaneh Zakaryan having lost a battle at Garni found shelter there. Notably, mentions about the fortress are also found in Armnian historian Muratsan’s novel “Gevorg Marzpetuni.” The novel is based on the true facts and depicts the history of Armenia dating to the tenth century. It particularly focuses on Armenian King Ashot Erkat, Armenian Prince Gevorge Marzpetuni, Arab-Armenian wars, the inner situation and the policy of Armenia in the mentioned period.
Perhaps so far the most beautiful description of the fortress was given in the story of Armenian writer and translator Aksel Bakunts. It’s titled “Alpine Violet.” It’s devoted to Arpenik Charents, the first wife of Armenian prominent writer Yeghishe Charents.
The story begins with the description of Kakavaberd Fortress. Below are some parts from the description:
“Year round there are clouds on top of Kakavaberd Fortress, the crenelated walls get lost in the white clouds. At a distance no ruins are seen and it seems like the pyramids are guarded; the iron doors of the castle are locked…
And when the wind causes the clouds to get dispersed, the sight of thickets, the bowed head of the tower and the walls partially stuck in the soil is caught. There is no any iron door or a guard on top of the tower. There is stillness in the ruins of Kakavaberd. The black kite and the vulture have built their nests on top of the walls. As soon as they hear some footstep they utter croaks and fly from their nests and make terrifying circles around the top of the fortress.
Time passes slowly both in the village and the fortress; the years are like the similar leaves of one and the same tree.”
